Skypacking Ladakh : Day 01: Stok La (4900 m) - the beginning
09th July, 2024
Route: Stok (3650 m) to Yurutse (4160 m) via Stok La (4900 m) and Rumbak (4000 m)
Distance: 20 km
Elevation gain: 1400 m
It was in September 2023 when I had done a long 200 km hike in Ladakh starting from the village of Matho (3450 m) going all the way to Tsomoriri (4500 m). Towards the end of that trip I did a self-supported run from Stok (3600 m) to Shang Sumdo (3670 m) via Matho La (4938 m). When I was following the Stok Tokpo (Tokpo is Ladakhi for Stream) I saw the Khelche Tokpo coming from a side valley. It was at that moment I decided that I would come back and hike in that side valley that would eventually lead me to Stok La (4850 m).
When me and Pete
were planning the route for 'Skypacking Ladakh' I suggested doing Markha valley in the first week so that we can get used to the long hiking days while keeping it easy to begin with. We chose Stok La (4850 m) as our first pass in the Skypacking trip.I really want to document the whole series in great detail. This decision made me add more camera gear to my backpacking system (drone, batteries, microphone system). The base weight (without food, water and fuel) came around 7.5 kg (which is pretty high from the Speed Hiking standards). Thanks to Pete as he decied to share some of that load and acknowledge the importance of documenting these hiking routes in great detail.
We took a cab (Rs 850/-) from Leh and reached Stok by 06:30 am. Driver Contact: Deldan Norbu +919906971657
We started hiking at 06:45 am. The aim was to let the body get used to the heavy (relatively) backpack and take the first week nice and easy.
The trail nicely hugs the Stok Tokpo for the first 3-4 kms and then at the confluence the trail would start following the Khelche Tokpo. The Khelche Tokpo stream is mostly dry so it is crucial to fill water at the spilt. The trail is accurate till a shepherd camp (4500 m) and then the trail is wrongly mapped (I have updated it now so if you are hiking on this trail in 2025 you can follow the trail).
Stok La (4900 m) is visible from the campsite. It is a red soil mountain slope. We were lucky to spot hundreds of Blue Sheeps (Ladakhi Name: Ridakh). Since we are doing this hike in summer (9th July) we could spot a lot of baby Ridakhs with mother Ridakhs. They were just resting on the East facing slopes of the pass. It was a beautiful sight.
The climb to the pass is contouring with long switchbacks. The trail is broad enough and the sinking soil gives good grip. Some 500 metres (distance) before the pass I saw the settlements of the Indus river valley. This was also the point where I got some network.
The climb to Stok La has a false saddle too. It felt like we have reached the pass but then there was another saddle with Buddhist prayer flags that marked the real and logical Stok La (4870 m).
I did try my best to get some drone shots over the pass but I guess it will take a lot of practice to be able to get to a good level. We sat the pass, enjoyed the views, ate a little and then started our descend towards Rumbak. We met another hiker in his 60s climbing up from the Rumbak side. He was doing a quick day hike from Rumbak to Stok La and back to Rumbak in oder to acclimatize for his expedition to Dzo Zongo.
The descend from the pass towards Rumbak is initially slippery (rolling stones), but then the trail makes some beautiful switchbacks that make you lose altitude quickly. The valley got wider and colourful towards the end.
We experienced short gusts of wind and scorching heat which is pretty normal in Ladakh post 1 pm. This is why I prefer a hat over a cap when it comes to hiking in Ladakh.
It took us 2 hours to reach Rumbak. There are 20 odd houses and a gompa. It is very easy to find a homestay. We quickly ended up having lunch at Tarchok Homestay. We had Chosthik (rice with boiled green veggies) and milk tea. I met a 12 year old boy named Tenzin. He was in Rumbak for summer holidays. He studies in 6th standard in Pathankot. We became friends over conversations of snow leopards and trekking. He told us that there is wifi installed for the whole village and he can take me there. But I guess I was happy with the no-network situation so I gently refused.
While we were having lunch I was able to put my power bank and other electronics for charge. The initial plan was to pack dinner and camp at Yurutse (4160 m) but we were told by the lady in Tarchok Homestay that there is one house in Yurutse which also is a homestay and we can eat dinner there.
We started hiking to Yurutse at 04:00 pm and after hiking 2 km on trail and another 2 km on an unpaved road we reached Yurutse by 05:00 pm. We took a 30-minute break and had some tea. These small breaks are crucial to keep the body well-rested for long hikes.
We pitched our tent adjacent to a farmland. The dinner was served at 07:00 pm. I ate a lot of veggies and lentil with the aim of replenishing all those calories. After changing into our camp clothes we scooped into our sleeping bags. We recorded our very first episode of Tent Talk and then fell asleep.
Hope to have a safe crossing over Ganda La on Day 02.
On each day of this hike me and Pete recorded a podcast sharing a summary of the day. We named it Tent Talk. Sharing the audio podcast here.
Tips:
- Cross Stok La (4870 m) from Stok towards Rumbak as you see the pass in the end. I feel it is mentally more challenging to hike to the pass from Rumbak side.
- Carry trekking poles if you are new to steep ascends and descends.
- Khelche Tokpo is dry so carry enough water from where the climb for Stok La begins.
If you wish to learn how to execute these treks in a DIY style then check out the DIY Trekking Field Course where I teach all the important modules that can help you become an independent hiker.
Amazing 👌